In addition to showcasing some of fashion’s hottest brands, this season’s Copenhagen Fashion Week spotlighted the most exciting designers from the Nordic region. From Jade Cropper to P.L.N., we’ve rounded up four brands to look out for and their Spring/Summer 2023 collections presented in the Danish capital.
A. Roege Hove, Latimmier and P.L.N. joined the CPHFW roster under its newly launched incubator program NEWTALENT, which aims to help rising designers grow on a global scale. Meanwhile, Jade Cropper — first launched in 2020 — partnered with Circulose to create a sustainably minded collection of knits, denim and more.
Continue scrolling to see the best emerging designers from CPHFW SS23.
Amalie Røge Hove revisited the earlier days of her design career for the latest collection of her namesake brand. “After a few seasons of moving forward, it felt natural to take a step back and look at my old work and procedures,” she explained. “I wanted to allow myself to create with no purpose and take the time to immerse myself in the details and the systematics of knitting, and by this investigate the possibilities and extremes even further.”
The creative invited guests to Nikolaj Kunsthal, a former church-slash-modern art gallery in the city of Copenhagen, to showcase a range of colorful, sheer knitwear pieces, which use a blend of cotton and nylon for a soft yet structured look. Hove shared with Hypebae: “The usual association with knitwear is softness — we wanted to challenge this perception by designing silhouettes with sharp edges and shape.” Monochrome black and white fits balanced out the various shades of lilac purple and apple green that were presented in color-blocked stripes, layers and more. These garments were accessorized with brooches created by Danish jewelry designer Inger Grubbe, as well as shaped handbags designed in collaboration with cross-disciplinary design-and architecture studio Atelier AXO.
Despite being one of the younger and newer designers on the CPHFW roster, Jade Cropper was undeniably one of the most talked about throughout the week. The creative launched her eponymous label in 2020, later being selected for Swedish Fashion Talents and gaining traction on social media with celebrity fans including Madison Beer. For her SS23 collection, Cropper joined forces with Circulose to craft each look, furthering the sustainability-focused mission of CPHFW. The label transformed a shopping mall parking lot into a catwalk covered in dust, on which models sported cut-out knit separates, denim dresses and more.
Helmed by Finnish designer Ervin Latimer, Latimmier joined the CPHFW calendar under its NEWTALENT program supporting emerging designers. Guests entered a CrossFit gym, where members were lifting weights just before the show. The runway, titled “Juvenile Expectations,” featured a range of unisex pieces with standouts including suits and shirts with shoulder cut-outs, in addition to accessories like ties complete with hardware detailing. The designer played around with fabrics, using glossy textures on matching jacket and pants sets, while a pair of leather trousers donned laces on the sides.
P.L.N. founder and creative director Peter Lundvald Nielsen presented his debut runway show with “Collection II.” With some of the coolest attendees sitting front row, the designer — who previously at Balenciaga, Vetements and Ottolinger — channeled rebellious energy into his deconstructed pieces. The outdoor show featured a live performance by rapper Blackhaine as models sported European punk-inspired looks with workwear and goth influences. “It’s really important to me that the show is a collective experience. I want it to be an experience that people leave taking something with them; senses stimulated and activated,” Nielsen spoke of the presentation. Having shown his collection as one of three names of CPHFW’s NEWTALENT program, Nielsen is definitely one to watch not only in the Nordic but also the global fashion scene.